Stenar via Brojanov Raz
Stenar is a 2,501-meter peak in the Julian Alps of Slovenia. It forms part of the ridge dividing the Vrata Valley from the Krma Valleys. It's northern and eastern walls as well as pyramidal shape definitely make it a conspicuous summit. The top is accessible using a tourist marked path.
Brojanov raz is an interesting and fairly easy to navigate route that enables us to climb Stenar from northeast. It runs mostly through pillars and ridges but also in the chimneys. The ridge and pillar parts are exposed (in some places greatly) and the rock quality is questionable, especially in lower parts. Therefore, although the difficulty grade does not exceed III degree the climb cannot be underestimated.
Starting from parking lot we head in the direction Aljažev dom mountain hut and shortly before it we turn right into the trail that goes to Škrlatica. Now the fun part begins as the path is quite steep and exposed to first rays of morning sun. At around 1800 meters we need be watchful as the marked path turns right but we stay in the big scree ravine and continue up. Around 1950 we turn left into scree opening that gives access to enclosed platform. Here we continue more to the left into direction where this platform is limited by sharp and exposed cliffs. Check out the images for better reference.
For precise route details please check the topo and images.
The climbing route does not go as far as Stenar summit, the terrain eases-off with difficulties around 2350 meters and we need to scramble up - first along the ridge, then by-passing the first culmination of Macesence (2472m) to eventually get to its top. From here the Stenar seems like impossible to climb from our direction - however that is not the case. We leave the summit of Macesence under a conspicuous giant block of rock land on tiny ridge connecting it to Stenar. From now on, in partly exposed but easy climb (I+) right to the top.
Initially for the descent we have only one option which is marked tourist trail, at Stenarska vratca pass (2295m) we can decide whether to stick to marked path and desecend to Vrata valley via Sovatna ravine (longer but more civilised) or take an off-road shortcut through scree madness and land back on the ascent path. Can't say much about the second option because I felt a bit sorry for my newish shoes which usually suffer greatly during rundowns in scree. That is definitely faster option of course.
Links:TOPO of the route
Stuffy and warm in the morning, the climb was done in low-hanging clouds with chilly feeling. Merino underwear with long sleeve was needed together with a second layer.
Tourist trails are well marked and passable at all times. Access path to the start of the climb isn't very distinct and is a bit tedious due to scree character of the terrain.
Stay at Aljažev dom mountain hut is the most reasonable option if we want to avoid driving/commuting in the early morning.
Another option to start the route really early is to spend a night at Bivak IV na Rušju shelter - it's the closest spot to the start of the route and it splits the effort into two days. Downside is we need a bit more stuff to carry - own sleeping bag and water reserve. We might also not get the best of sleep as the shelter is a popular one. (Cheers to Czechs!) Our things do not have to be carried up as long as we return via Grunt scree - we can stash our things somewhere between the rocks and don't need to return to the shelter to pick them up.
Starting point reached by car. There's a parking lot just below Aljažev dom mountain hut. A day of parking costs (2025) 24 EUR in high season (15.06 till 15.09) and 15 EUR in lower. In the winter the barrier is closed for good.
Alternatively a free bus shuttle can be used to get to the starting point (timetable in the links). Car can be parked in Mojstrana then which costs 10EUR.
Route is only equipped with pittons, some of them are in bad condition. The rock doesn't offer that many options for mobile protection however some friends, nuts and loops come in handy. Key sections are always secured with pitons. Orientation is fairly easy. Despite low grade the route requires very precise footwork at times and because of that it might be worth to put on climbing shoes, at least for the first three pitches. Steps in there are tiny in places.
Lately there has been some rockfall (yellow rocks) that touched the ridge, however it did not affect the route.
Since the rock quality is an actual concern in here extra caution is required while climbing. It's highly unlikely to meet here other teams, however, in such case I would strongly advise against proceeding in the chimney part. The risk of triggering rocks (and really big ones) even involuntarily is too high in my opinion.
20l rucksack, hiking poles, ascent shoes, harness, personal climbing set, helmet, 60m single rope, set of friends, set of loops
