Grossglockner via Stüdlgrat
Grossglockner is the highest mountain in Austria, standing at 3,798 meters. It is part of the Hohe Tauern range in the Central Eastern Alps. It can be climbed in many ways but the Stüdlgrat is the most famous ridge route leading to the summit of Grossglockner. It is a classic alpine climb that combines rock scrambling with sections of fixed protection and some exposure. Rock quality is really good, only the lower parts of the ridge are a bit brittle. Route can be characterised by mostly grade II–III UIAA climbing on solid rock, with a few more demanding moves. The ridge is narrow and requires surefootedness, but the difficulty is considered moderate for experienced alpinists. It was first ascended in 1864 by the Viennese merchant Johann Stüdl, who was instrumental in developing alpine infrastructure in the region. Today it is one of the most climbed routes on Grossglockner, often used as an alternative to the normal route because it offers a more aesthetic and direct line to the summit.
The climb can be basically split into two parts and that is before and after so called Frühstücksplatz - place for breakfast. Till that spot we are dealing with a nice alpine scramble. This part I would rate up to II degree, there is one more demanding chimney but all in all this stretch is a nice warmup for what awaits us higher up. There is no serious exposition. Honestly speaking the hardest spot is to leave the glacier and enter the route, place is brittle and wet. Once that is crossed what is left seems like a quite leisure scramble.
From the Frühstücksplatz however things get more serious - both in terms of technical difficulty and exposition. Still, the protection is in place wherever and whenever needed and following the route is fairly easy due to polished rock. There are also additional metal aides (mostly wires) where the climb would get too difficult for an average guide client. These make the climb really pleasant because we don’t need to carry lot of our own protection. Downside could be that due to crowds we will be stalled by jams in key passages. Chilled atmosphere might also trick us to subconsciously ignore the difficulties and dangers - we can’t forget we are over 3500 meters and 5 hour descent awaits us. The higher we get the bigger chance for snowy conditions.
Descent runs along Kleinglocker which is reached after crossing a tiny col. There are protection posts on the ridge and also in the descent, along with metal wires and ropes. After crossing snow fields on the slope of Kleinglockner we make our way to Adlersruhe mountain hut. From here we use the via-ferrata to by-pass Ködnitzkees as much as possible. We can also skip longer part of the via-ferrata and use Ködnitzkees to get back to Stüdlhütte. In both cases the path is marked.
Tour is quite demanding physically if taken in one go, splitting it with an overnight at Stüdlhütte mountain hut is a reasonable and common pattern. Just keep in mind that during high season it is difficult to make a booking when weather forecast is in reliable margin of error. Starting from parking lot makes you dependent only on weather and your physical condition, taking the hut out of equation.
Warm and sunny throughout the whole day, mild wind gusts.
Marked path of the trail is easy to follow and obvious to walk. Glacier part is dependent on current conditions, in high season the path will be evident due to tracks and also because of people going ahead, after us. On the ridge there can be some orientation doubts - but only in lower part before entering it. Rule is same as always for like-wise formations - look for protection placed in the rocks and for the rock bearing signs of frequent usage.
The ridge itself was completely devoid of snow, after leaving glacier I could put on ascent shoes and enjoy climbing with better feeling than in mountaineering boots. These were however still necessary for the descent as Kleinglockner was snow-covered. Of course climbing Stüdlgrat ridge is also possible in snowy conditions, although that is more challenging.
Grossglockner is surrounded by webcams, also really detailed ones. Use them to check current conditions.
Links:Adlersruhe webcam
Area offers abundant overnight facilities which include Lucknerhaus by the parking lot, Lucknerhütte hut in the Ködnitztal valley, Stüdlhütte hut at 2800 meters and Adlersruhe - Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte hut which is the highest mountain hut in Austria.
Links:Lucknerhaus webpageLucknerhütteStüdlhütteAdlersruhe - Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte
Parking lot reached by car. Starting point can be also reached using bus no. 952 leaving Kals am Grossglockner.
Links:Bus timetable
Route is a very popular one also internationally so Austrians won't be the major force attributing to traffic congestion. Because the peak of Grossglockner belongs to the Crown of Europe and there is a mountain hut only 350 meters below the peak the normal route will also be heavily congested - something to consider for the descent. Weekends are to be avoided at all cost during July and August.
Links:Topo (from Bergsteigen)
Descent from Kleinglockner is the most dangerous part, with snow already melting there and people jamming the way. There is also some risk of rockfall but not significant. Glacier crossing also carries some risk.
35l rucksack, 30m rope, crampons, pickaxe, helmet, personal climbing set, 6 x alpine quickdraw, mountaineering boots
