Ľadový štít by ridge via Široká veža and Maly Ľadový štít

This trip allows to climb third highest peak in High Tatra mountains - Ľadový štít which also belongs to Great Crown of High Tatra. It is also interesting because to get to Priečne sedlo pass it uses the only via ferrata in Tatra mountains. Ridge part is engaging and exposed at places and requires previous experience in such terrain but technical difficulties do not require climbing skills.

Start from Starý Smokovec using green marked trail that will take us to Téryho chata mountain shelter (about 2.5 - 3 hours), then follow yellow trail to Priečne sedlo pass. Approaching the pass there is an option to climb it using traditional trail with chain securings or via ferrata.

Via ferrata to Priečne sedlo pass is not demanding, as it is rated A/B and is also not that attractive as it basically goes up in ladder-like style and traverses in the direction of chained trail. Still, as it is unique in the High Tatra mountains it is worth giving it a try to see securings sticking out of granite and not limestone rock. It takes around 30 minutes to complete it.

Široká veža is the first peak on our way, it is 2461 meters high. From Priečne sedlo we traverse a little bit to a great gutter on the right side (NW direction) and keep to the left side of the gutter going up. There is some scrambling but the stretch is technically easy. After around 30 minutes the summit is reached (it is narrow and flat).

Descent from Široká veža to Sedielko goes along the ridge with difficulties not exceeding I grade provided that one II grade section is omitted. This section starts right 5 minutes from the peak, once the ridge elevates just go to its left side and descent by grassy steps and blocks. Passed that the ridge is really pleasant, with minor exposed sections and good rock quality. Descent takes approximately 1 hour.

Sedielko pass is the highest touristically available pass in High Tatras, therefore it can be also reached directly from the valley using green trail. That could be a variant for this trip and shorten it by one hour.

Malý Ľadový štít (2602 meters) is climbed from Sedielko pass, the path is not technically demanding but may give some orientation problems, also the gutter which the path goes is a bit crumbly. Depending on chosen variant in takes to the main peak of Malý Ľadový štít or to a small ridge to the right side of it. A lot of cairns on the way help to keep on the right path. This section takes around 40 minutes

Finally, Ľadový štít is only 250 meters and 30 minutes from Malý Ľadový štít using the ridge. That is the greatest stretch of the whole trip. Ridge is a bit exposed but the rock is of excellent quality. There are two places of II climbing grade, one with metal aids. Once passed the ridge eases off and reaches peak of Ľadový štít.

Descent from Ľadový štít goes along the north ridge down to Ľadová priehyba pass. The ridge is less demanding that the one between Ľadový štít and Malý Ľadový štít (around 0+ grade) but one exposed section needs to be crossed and that is Ľadový kôň (ice horse in free translation - as getting a nice seat is one way to cross it). Once Ľadová priehyba pass is reached the path goes down to the to the basin of Five Spiš Lakes. This part is unpleasant, with loose rocks and giant blocks of rock to cross. Keeping to the right side of the basin will get us to the Veľké Spišské pleso lake that will be passed on left side and after some distance we will land at Téryho chata mountain shelter. From now we're back on green trail that will take us to the starting point.

Sunny in the morning, low clouds in the afternoon. Very warm.

Marked path of the trail is in good condition, well marked and prepared. The ferrata securings are in excellent condition. Quality of the rock in ridge parts ranges from good to fantastic. Only drawback is a bit nasty descent from Ľadový štít to the basin of Five Spiš Lakes.

Teryho Chata - (did not stay, always fully booked and pricey), Zamkovskeho Chata (did not stay, but the food is delicious)

Car driven to Starý Smokovec, parking lot behind Grand Hotel.

Links:Parking lot location

Trip can be shortened by omitting Široká veža and heading directly for Sedielko pass but that will also mean giving up on ferrata part.

I had the rope and some climbing gear with me to secure less experienced members of my team but there was no need for that

Exposed ridge sections, rock falling in the gutters and crumbly descent from Ľadový štít.

20L rucksack, trekking poles, helmet, locked carabiner, sling, 30m rope, personal climbing set