Prisojnik - Tapeta
Prisojnik (2,547 m) also called Prisank is a mountain in the Julian Alps of Slovenia, located above the Vršič pass. It is famous for the Ajdovska deklica (Heathen Maiden), a natural rock formation resembling a girl’s face on its northern wall. The mountain offers several hiking routes, including the Prisojnik Window Route (Kopiščarjeva Pot), which passes through a large natural rock window (Prisojnikovo Okno). It also offers a plethora of climbing routes in its numerous walls.
'Tapeta' is a medium difficulty route running in the southern wall of Prisank. The dominant formation on the route consists of mildly to significantly sloping slabs intersected by carved cracks, with some dihedrals and one pillar. The rock quality is very good for the Julian Alps, and the route is fully equipped with somewhat archaic bolts. The short distance from the Vršič pass and the relatively small elevation gain to the starting point make Tapeta a very interesting option for intermediate climbers.
Starting from Vršič pass parking lot we follow marked trail to Prisojnik in southern direction, then we take Grebenska pot trail through Gladki Rob which runs in the direction of the ridge and which eventually joins Prisojnik Window Route. However we leave it in lower parts before ascending the ridge - there's a tired cairn marking it. Now pathless, cutting through grassy slopes untill a prominent gully is crossed. Then we go up in the direction of the wall - if in doubt please use my gpx track.
Start of the route is marked by an old loop/auxiliary cord and one piton. 'Tapeta' has 6 pitches in total, all stands are equipped with bolts - bit archaic though. Key moments are also bolt-protected. There isn't really much need to add your own protection. Rock is of superb quality when compared to other routes in Julian Alps. That can be said about all of the pitches except for the first one, here we encounter a bit of crumbliness.
The route ends on a broad ridge that is a branch of the main ridge of Prisojnik. We need to ascend a bit to get to the point where it diverges (we can also make a traverse to avoid ascending). We land again on so-called Grebenska pot marked trail which is running along the ridge. It is protected in key places, the difficulties do not exceed B grade for via-ferratas. On the way down we pass the famous Prisojnik Window (Prisojnikovo Okno) - a wide opening in the wall. Kopiščarjeva Pot is the name of a via-ferrata that runs through it and we can also take it to get back to Vršič pass - although that will take longer and will be more challenging that Grebenska pot trail.
Links:Topo of the route
Humid maritime wind from south in the morning bringing low hanging clouds. Luckily it cleared once we approached the start of the route. Since the wall that the Tapeta route lies on gives shade in morning hours long sleeve was necessary.
Ascent and descent routes are tourist marked trails, well-trodden and easy to follow. Part of the access route to the base of the wall is more problematic as there isn't an actual path in place but it is basically walking on the grass for most part.
I stayed in Vršič pass for couple of days to avoid driving that crazy turn Russian-made road. Used Poštarski dom na Vršiču as my accommodation. Payed 85 EUR for two nights in 3 person room without any food supplement It was clean and beds were very comfrotable however the room wasn't really spacious (one bunk bed and rest of the space was taken by our climbing gear) and warm water in the shower was to be paid separately - that is 4 EUR for 3 minute of shower. The hut takes a bit of walk to get to from the parking lot so you won't meet random people inside and is more tranquil because of that. At the same time the hut does not provide its parking space like Tičarjev dom na Vršiču hut.
Links:Poštarski dom na Vršiču
Vršič pass can be reached by car or by bus. To park the car during summer months you need to be there fairly early especially during the weekends. For now (2025) the parking is free of charge.
There are road barriers built from both sides of the Vršič pass, the passage will be free of charge unless done under 50 minutes. That means that there will be parking fee - it is expected to come in force in 2026. Also the number of parking spaces will be reduced.
Typical dangers for that kind of activity. The ascent route runs along the marked path but below it. There's a small risk of falling rocks, especially in the gully we need to cross.
20l rucksack, hiking poles, helmet, harness, climbing shoes, ascent shoes, personal climbing set, 2x60m double rope, set of friends, set of loops, 6 x alpine quickdraws, 6 x regular quickdraws
