Antelao

Monte Antelao with an altitude of 3.264 meters is the highest mountain in the eastern Dolomites and the second-highest peak in the entire Dolomite range. Often referred to as the "King of the Dolomites" due to its commanding presence, it is known for its sharp pyramid shape and steep, glaciated slopes. The peak is situated in northeastern Italy near Cortina d'Ampezzo and presents a challenging climb with spectacular panoramic views from the summit. It's one of the 3-thousanders in the Dolomites that does not offer a via ferrata path to its top. The normal route to the top includes exposed sections, a huge amount of ascent, significant risk of rockfall, and heavy reliance on terrain and weather conditions. For some it may sound like a worthy challenge, and indeed it is.

Antelao via normale - access from Val d'Oten valley:

The path starts from the Praciadelan parking lot; firstly it tries to find its way around the dried riverbed of the Val d'Oten to finally hit some wooded slopes just after the Capanna degli Alpini mountain hut. The steepness is pleasant and the path is nicely marked. After gaining some elevation and crossing the dry riverbed again, more ascent begins in dwarf pine terrain. After some time, we arrive at the Galassi mountain hut. From here, it's just half an hour more to the Forcella Piccola mountain pass.

Antelao via normale description:

Route starts from Forcella Piccola pass. There is theoretically no marked trail, but there are some marked spots that will help to find the way and of course the path is distinct enough to follow. We hit a southern direction and ascend moderately in the limestone realm, grassy at first and then entering a rocky basin, walking on scree material on its left side. We get to the point where slabs block walking and this is the start of the real thing. Following the markings we climb up a series of exposed grassy and stony ledges on the eastern side at first and then cross to the western side. This part is quite crumbly and the upper sections run above the ledges below, so keep that in mind in case there are other climbers. When going in a group, try to keep close to mitigate the risk of falling rocks. Climbing difficulties don't exceed grade I.

Next, we land just at the foot of the so-called 'laste' - a great slide-like cliff stretching up to the main formation of the summit. In here, the rule is to keep to the left side and again, the biggest danger in case of good weather conditions is rockfall triggered by people above. Rocks reach supersonic speeds here being rolled from the top, and you don't want to stand in their way. This section is dependent on humidity conditions. If covered in ice or wet, the best choice is to turn back and head down. Any problems with slipping on the ascent mean extreme problems while going down. It is also relatively long.

'Laste' ends at about 3.050 meters above sea level and now there is some climbing to be done. At first, a grade II chimney, a bit of a traverse, and then an exposed ledge with a secured chimney and a couple more ledges. They are not that difficult if they are dry.

The summit of Antelao lies at 3.264 meters and is interestingly split between two culminations. It (probably) offers a fantastic view (mine was fantastic, but only in the northern direction where there were no clouds). Anyway, after all these hardships you may find yourself worthy of the King.

Antelao via normale - descent:

The descent is definitely the hardest part of the trip. The climbing part of the last 200 meters requires constant attention. In the 'laste', we must focus on not dislodging rocks in order not to slip and cause danger to others, and this section drags on endlessly (from the knees' perspective). Finally, in the grassy ledges part, the orientation gets a bit tricky and we also need to watch our steps, as the ledges are sometimes exposed and full of loose rocks. At this point, it is worth mentioning that this part will be descended around 9 - 10 hours from the start, so exhaustion may be creeping in. If you plan to conquer Antelao without a night at the Galassi hut, make sure you are well prepared.

Weather:

Warm to hot while in the sun, once clouded, mild to cool temperatures. No wind.

Trail:

All the way to the Forcella Piccola pass is marked and the path is decent. Via normale to Antelao is not an official trail, but the path is marked in places and the marking is good enough, also the path can be recognized. Extra caution is required just before the summit in the scrambling section where other variants seem correct but may be more difficult.

Tips and author's comments:

Water is scarce on the way; there is one stream just below the Galassi hut. In the hut there is no drinking water, but bottled water can be bought for 2 EUR for 0.5l and 3 EUR for 1l. If you are a member of a mountain club (like DAV, OEAV), a 25% discount applies.

If you plan to have dinner at the Galassi mountain hut, try to let them know in the morning on the way up. When we came there in the afternoon, we only got served some snacks. Pretty delicious though.

Links:Water source approximated location

Dangers:

Falling stones, exposed sections, risk of slipping, orientation problems if clouded, physical exhaustion.

Gear used:

20l rucksack - Thule Stir 20l, trekking poles, helmet, 10m cord

Transportation:

Car driven to the parking lot in the Praciadelan site above Calalzo di Cadore. The road is in a decent state, and the parking lot still offered some free spaces.

Links:Parking lot

Accommodation:

The Galassi mountain hut is the closest one with an alpine character, warm people, and lovely service. There is also the Capanna degli Alpini refuge in the Val d'Oten, which is at a lower altitude but located in the desolate and tranquil Val d'Oten.