Veliki Oltar to Visoki Rokav
Trip overview
Veliki Oltar (2.621m) and Visoki Rokav (2.646m) are two peaks located in the Julian Alps connected by a roughly 400m long ridge. They are accordingly 7th and 5th highest peaks of Slovenia. There are no marked paths leading to them. Both lie in Martuljska group which is notorious for questionable rock quality. Crossing the ridge between them poses a significant challenge that requires climbing skills, familiarity with crumbly terrain and good stamina.
Climb is split into two days. On the first day we approach Bivak II na Jezerih bivouac. On the second day we climb Veliki Oltar, cross the ridge to Visoki Rokav and descend back to the valley. Climb is of course also doable in one day as the whole thing took me 13 hours. The whole trip is a true adventure, don't expect to meet a lot of fellow climbers, especially in the area of Visoki Rokav.
Links:Visoki Rokav summit book
Route description
Detailed route description can be found in each of the "Day" sub-pages above the map.
Trip conditions
Weather:
Sunny and rather stuffy, around 27 degrees in the valley, 8 degrees near the bivouac at night. Slight western wind.
Trail:
No marked path at any time. We follow the trodden path, sometimes it's more visible, sometimes less. Cairns help, but in the forest down in the Vrata valley there are more variants possible. We go up by path and descend on the scree where possible.
Additional information
Tips and author's comments:
What's the proper motivation to undertake this trip ? For me it was partly collecting highest peaks of Slovenia I was missing on my list and possibility to do so in one, ambitious go. The climb is not only pleasure, the descent from Rokav is a real hazard, never experienced such a crazy crumbly world. Also getting down from Ozebnik is one of its kind and also heavily dependent on conditions.
Dangers:
Climb can be considered hazardous and risky and that includes exposure on the ridge and brittle rock. Rappelling from Rokav is endangered by the rockfall from above. Same in the chute below Rokav (Ozebnik) - all of the stuff coming down while rappelling will also enter here. Not to mention that this chute is prone to self-triggered rockfall. Having climbers above is a serious hazard. Some spots might be also tricky from an orientation perspective.
Best conditions for the climb would be in early summer when there is still some snow in Ozebnik chute. You can try to find out current conditions on Slovenian forum - hribi.net.
Gear used:
35l rucksack, mountaineering boots - La Sportiva Aequilibrium Speed Gtx, harness, helmet, personal climbing set, 6x quickdraws, 3x friends, 2x 30m rope, hiking poles, down sleeping bag, sleeping pad, cooking stove
Transportation:
Car left in Mojstrana, then hitchhike to Poldov Rovt. Please refer to provided link on parking in Vrata valley.
Provisions:
For the ridge you will need to carry all the water you need with you, there is none available in the area of Rokavi bivouac. Last chance to refill the water is at 1.450 meters, please refer to the photos.
Links:Approximate location of water sourceWater stream on the way up
