Obergabelhorn Traverse
Trip overview
The Obergabelhorn is a 4,063-metre-high mountain in the Pennine Alps, situated in the Swiss canton of Valais. It stands between the Val d'Anniviers to the west and the Mattertal to the east, rising above the Zinal Glacier to the north and the Zmutt Glacier to the south. Located approximately seven kilometers northwest of Zermatt, the peak forms a sharp, isolated pyramid defined by prominent ridges, including the Arbengrat to the southwest and the Gabelhorngrat to the northeast. Both of these ridges will be used during the traverse described in this post.
Route description
For a detailed description, check the "Day" sections.
Trip conditions
Trail:
All trails are well marked and maintained. The approach to Arben Bivouac is an alpine trail that is easily navigable.
Rock quality is not in question on the ridges of Obergabelhorn — as long as we try to stay directly on the edges. In case of bypasses on the northern side there were spots with whitish, brittle rock. More brittleness can be experienced during the descent from Wellenkuppe, but only after we actually leave the ridge. The overall rock quality is decent.
Regarding hiking trails — their status can be checked before setting off on the official Zermatt website.
Additional information
Tips and author's comments:
I managed to climb Obergabelhorn on the second attempt; the first one failed two years earlier due to dynamically changing weather. I approached the summit from the Rothornhütte mountain shelter and retreated shortly after reaching Gabelhorngrat. Because of that I needed to cross the peak of Wellenkuppe twice. Personally I wouldn't want to do it again because the crossing requires frequent putting on and taking off crampons and there are sections where we need to go up in the actual descent. Therefore combining it with Arben ridge seems more reasonable and pleasant — especially since from Arben bivouac the altitude gain to the peak of Obergabelhorn is around 800 meters.
Dangers:
This traverse includes a significant amount of climbing, glacier travel and high altitude. Each of these carries its typical risks (rockfall, crevasse fall, altitude-related issues).
The peak of Obergabelhorn breaks the 4000 m altitude mark by only 63 meters; however, during the traverse, time spent above 3800 m is around 6 hours. For an unacclimatized, sensitive person that can be enough to trigger headaches or other altitude-related issues. Therefore it's not the best option as a preparation before another higher peak. The traverse requires a lot of ropework and frequent putting on and taking off crampons that will prolong the whole thing and add more effort to it, especially if someone is not acclimatized.
Gear used:
La sportiva aequilibrium speed boots, hiking poles, 35l rucksack, crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, 60m rope, quickdraws, slings, friends, ice screw
Transportation:
Starting point reached on foot from Zermatt train terminal. The train terminal is located in the center of Zermatt. Check the link for more information about getting to Zermatt.
Links:How to get to Zermatt
Accommodation:
Arben bivouac and Rothornhütte are possible overnight options. The first one is a self-catered shelter and the other is a serviced mountain hut. Rothornhütte is optional and can be used as a backup in case of bad weather/late arrival or if you want to split the traverse into three days. From here you can also embark on the Zinalrothorn ascent the next day without a need to get down to Zermatt.
Provisions:
Arben bivouac does not have a guardian. It is a self-catering hut meaning that all the food must be carried up. You might be lucky to find some supplies left by alpinists; however, counting on it is not a good idea — better to have it as a nice add-on. There is a stove and some basic cooking utensils. There is running water next to the hut; according to the board it is not potable. Filtering or boiling the water will do the job. Next to the bivouac there is a small cellar locked with a combination padlock. There are supposedly some drinks inside like Coca-Cola, etc.; for the code you need to contact the owner.
