Obergabelhorn Traverse

The Obergabelhorn traverse is a classic alpine route that typically involves ascending the Arbengrat and descending via the Wellenkuppe and the normal route (Gabelhorngrat). This itinerary requires sustained movement on mixed terrain at elevations exceeding 4.000 meters. As mentioned, two ridges are crossed during this traverse:

• The Arbengrat is a southwest-facing rock ridge that serves as a climbing route to the summit of the Obergabelhorn in the Pennine Alps. The climb is graded AD (Assez Difficile) on the alpine scale and features sustained sections of UIAA grade II and III rock climbing.
• The Obergabelhorn ridges consist of steep, narrow crests of rock, snow, and ice that define the mountain's pyramid shape. Navigating these ridges requires technical proficiency in both traditional rock protection and snow crest management.

Arbengrat approach (2a):

Leave the Arben bivouac; to the left of the water taps there is a path running up the ramp. A bit of hand use in some spots. Then hike up to reach the foot of the glacier. We cross it keeping to the left (2 crevasses - 2026) and going up (turns right and goes back up). In the highest spot we look for a big cairn, which marks the start of the rocky climb. The glacier section can be bypassed somehow, which we witnessed on the way when a mountain guide who left the bivouac after us appeared ahead of us at the climbing section. I haven't found any reliable information on that.

First we scramble directly above, enter a shelf, and follow it to the left (west). Pay attention, as at some point there is a steep chimney opening that we need to enter. It takes us to a large couloir which we follow to the ridge—sometimes inside it (loose rock), sometimes on the left side (better rock but exposed). There is one awkward move inside the couloir, especially for tall climbers, and one exposed passage a bit higher up (it might be a good idea to place some protection). Generally it is fairly easy to follow with cairns and crampon scratch marks on the rock; however, in some spots multiple variants are possible. Slightly above 3.750 meters we enter the Arben ridge and 300 meters of climbing await us to the top.

Obergabelhorn via Arbengrat ridge (AD+/3b):

Arben ridge is fairly easy to read and the route follows a logical line. For the most part we try to stay on the crest; however, there are also a few bypasses around difficulties on the left side (north). The further away from the crest, the worse the rock quality gets. In some sections it is better to wait if there are climbers above, or simply stay directly on the edge (though that can be more difficult). A few obstacles on the way cannot be avoided. The first is a 10m Gendarm bypassed on the south side (exposed, but with excellent holds and gear placements - not sure why rated III). The next challenge is friction climbing on slabs (III). Finally, before the summit there is real climbing to be done in a short vertical chimney with excellent holds as well. Above it, continue up a small dihedral and that's it.

Check out the topo for detailed flow of the route.

Links:Arbengrat topo

Wellenkuppe via Gabelhorngrat (AD/3a):

Descent from Obergabelhorn via Wellenkuppe runs in an easterly direction, is lengthy, and depends heavily on conditions. It is not trivial: it involves ridge climbing, negotiating fixed hemp ropes across a Gendarm, and crossing the glacier. That requires putting on and taking off crampons at least twice, along with extensive ropework. It normally takes around 5 hours. The destination is the Rothornhütte.

We head east to the edge of the ridge where metal poles are installed. Here we can decide whether to abseil or downclimb. The difficulty does not exceed grade III, but several sections are steep. In good conditions, downclimbing is definitely faster. Rock quality is solid and the holds are positive. Depending on conditions, crampons may be needed to cross the remaining ridge leading to the foot of the Gendarm. We climb the tower from the right (III), traverse directly across, and then use fixed hemp ropes to descend (quite vertical in places). At a small col, we put crampons back on and ascend the glacier-covered summit of the Wellenkuppe.

Descent from Wellenkuppe to Rothornhütte (3a):

Next we descend a snowy slope to a plateau (crampons off) and downclimb vertical, exposed slabs (III). When the ridge narrows, look for a rock pillar on the right side and use it to descend (not directly on the ridge crest) — there are some slings and an old Friend here. Keeping close to the ridge, continue to the col. Now gear up for the Trift glacier and traverse it to the left, then head straight down. Crossing a large plateau lower down to find the trail to the hut is the final alpinistic challenge of the route.

Links:Rothornhütte website

Rothornhütte - Zermatt:

The final section of the descent is a long hike down to Zermatt. From the Rothornhütte we follow the alpine trail down to Berggasthaus Trift, and then follow the Triftbach stream down to Zermatt on the standard hiking trail.

Links:Berggasthaus Trift website

Weather:

Light rain showers the previous afternoon left moisture on the rock; in the morning a moderate northwesterly wind brought sub-zero temperatures above 3.850 m and the rock was icy in places. However, on the descent (which faces east), the sun had already melted the ice and dried the rock. A hardshell jacket and warm gloves were essential until the sun warmed things up.

Trail:

Although there are some brittle spots along the way, this traverse ranks among the ones with top rock quality.