Obergabelhorn Traverse
Approach to Arben Bivouac
Route scheme
Trip overview
Arben bivouac is located at the foot of Ober Gabelhorn and makes a base for climbs starting from the south. It sleeps 15 people on bunk beds, 3 levels, very spacious. There is water source outside - from the tap (not potable). For preparaing meals we can use gas cookers that come in plenty. To enjoy the food we have a table with places to sit, cups, plates, utensils. Toilett faciliy is below the hut, quite challenging to use, however with running water and almost no stink. There's a good mobile connection in the area of the biovuac.
Before arriving in the bivouac make sure to book your spot online and make a payment (25 CHF in 2026).
Links:Shelter webpage
Route description
Access to Arben Bivouac:
From Zermatt follow the signs in Furi direction, then Arbenbach. In the middle of Matterhorn north wall there is a branch off to the bivuoac - by the Arbenbach branch-off. Now the trail is rising mildly at first on the gravel road to be more steep in the moraine. Finally we enter rocky section, first on the path, then partly wet slabs (chains in here).
Access to bivuoac is demanding in the last sections as it is located on a protruding ramp. There are chains, steps and a ladder running on smooth slabs. This protected section is exposed, self belay would be recommended, especially with all that gear that we carry in our backpacks.
Trip conditions
Weather:
Short sleeve was enough for the whole stretch, especially that I arrived at bivouac shortly after noon and the weather was sunny. Later in the day, there were occasional showers that made us worry about the conditions on the Arben ridge the following day.
Trail:
Whole way up to the Arben Bivouac is marked, at Arbenbach we leave red trail (easier) and enter the blue one. There are sections of closed trail (due to rockfall and landslides) on the way that we need to by-pass and these will add a bit of ascent.
Additional information
Dangers:
Route is generally considered safe with two caveats. Firstly, the Zmuttbach valley is subject to rapid flooding against which we are warned on the way. Secondly, the final part of the approach to the bivouac is running in a vertical rocky terrain with protection in place like ladders and chains. The climb is exposed and because of that it might be a reasonable idea to consider belay or self protection.
